Langtang Valley Trek – 2024 (April 3 – April 12 2024)

Day 1: April 3, 2024 – Kathmandu to Syafrubesi

Early this morning at 7:30, Daniel and Lisa, a zo mooi couple and my guests from the Netherlands, and myself their trekking guide met up at Machapokhari. We were all excited to embark on our Langtang Valley Trek. Our plan was to catch a bus to Syafrubesi, our starting point. Although the bus was supposed to leave at 7:30 am, it ended up departing at 8:00 am.

Our journey began as we headed towards the Prithwi highway. Along the way, we made a quick stop at Naubise for a refreshing tea break. Daniel and Lisa opted for masala tea, while I preferred coffee. Energized, we continued our journey, passing through Galchi on a bumpy and dusty highway. Thankfully, the road smoothed out and became black-topped from Galchi to Betrawati.

The bus made another stop at Dhunge for lunch, despite the sweltering heat. We shared a traditional Nepali meal of dal bhat together before resuming our journey towards Syafrubesi. The bus was filled with locals, except for Daniel, Lisa and an American travelerwho was all heading for various treks in the region.

As we traversed the thrilling and narrow off-road paths, with the bus tires skirting the edge of the road and a steep cliff beyond, we couldn’t help but feel a rush of excitement. As we approached Dhunchhe, our bus came to a halt at an army checkpoint. I obtained the necessary national park entry permits for Daniel and Lisa, ensuring smooth passage for our trekking adventure. After registering our entry, we resumed our journey to Syafrubesi, eager to continue our exploration of the beautiful Langtang Valley.

Finally, after an 8-hour journey from Kathmandu, we arrived in Syafrubesi, feeling exhausted but exhilarated by the adventure.

Once we checked into our hotel, we wasted no time in having dinner and retiring to bed, eager for the adventures that awaited us in the days ahead.

Day 2: April 4, 2024 – Hike from Syafrubesi to Lama Hotel

Today marked the beginning of our trekking adventure as we set off from Syafrubesi to Lama Hotel. Waking up bright and early at 6:30 am, we eagerly gathered for breakfast at 7 am, filled with excitement for the journey ahead.

After a hearty breakfast, we commenced our hike at 7:30 am, well-prepared for the warm day ahead. I advised Lisa and Daniel to dress lightly and carry plenty of water. Our path led us across the Bhotekoshi river and along the captivating Langtang river, surrounded by breathtaking forests and scenery. Along the way, we encountered charming settlements and cozy teahouses, providing welcome breaks during our trek.

An hour into our hike, we paused by the riverside to refresh ourselves with the cool waters of the Langtang river, invigorating us for the journey ahead. Continuing through the picturesque landscape, we arrived at Bamboo, nestled on the banks of the Langtang river, where we stopped for lunch and a well-deserved rest at 12:30 pm.

After replenishing our energy, we resumed our trek towards Lama Hotel, immersing ourselves in the lush forest and serenaded by the melodious chirping of birds. Navigating across suspension bridges and tackling both uphill and downhill paths, we finally reached our destination, Lama Hotel, at 3 pm.

We settled into the cozy Tibet Guest House at Lama Hotel, taking some time to unwind and connect with nature. Relaxing in the grassy grounds of the teahouse, we shared and practiced different yoga and meditation techniques, rejuvenating our minds and bodies.

In the evening, we reconvened for a delightful dinner at 7 pm, savoring the flavors of the region before retiring for a well-deserved rest, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us on the next leg of our journey.

Day 3: April 5, 2024 – Hike from Lama Hotel to Langtang Valley

Our day began with a chilly morning as we gathered for breakfast at 7:30 am, clad in full trousers and fleece jackets to ward off the cold. Eager to continue our journey towards Langtang Valley, we fueled up with a hearty breakfast before setting out.

As we embarked on our hike, we encountered mules along the trail, diligently transporting loads from Syafrubesi to Langtang. Daniel and Lisa, avid bird enthusiasts, eagerly identified various bird species like Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Black Francolin, Rufous Sibia, Gray head yellow warber, Asian Barbet, Golden spectacled Warbler, Streaked Laughing Thrush, Parus Manticola, Woodpeckers etc using a mobile app called Merlin Bird ID, sparking my own interest in birdwatching.

Passing through a place called Riverside, we were greeted by the majestic sight of the Langtang mountain for the first time. The breathtaking scenery of the Langtang river, lush forests, and distant mountain vistas filled us with awe. The vibrant Rhododendron blooms added to the enchanting atmosphere, reminding us that we were experiencing a slice of heaven on earth.

After crossing a bridge beyond Riverside, we embarked on an uphill climb, eventually reaching a wide grassland where we paused to rest and soak in the natural beauty surrounding us. Continuing on, we arrived at Ghoda Tabela, a picturesque location adorned with Yak farms and grazing Yaks, enhancing the scenic allure of the area.

After four hours of trekking from Lama Hotel, we reached our lunch spot at Hotel Tibetan in Ghoda Tabela, where we refueled and replenished our energy for the journey ahead. The mesmerizing landscapes and encounters with nature along the way reaffirmed our love for adventure and the wonders of the Langtang Valley.

After lunch, we kept walking to Langtang Valley. The trail wasn’t too steep. We reached a nice place called Thangsyap with some small teahouses. After about an hour and a half from Ghoda Tabela, we got to the old Langtang Village. In the old Langtang Village, which we passed by on our trek, there was a tragic event. An avalanche and earthquake in 2015 took many lives. 243 people died, including 175 villagers, 27 local tourism staff (guides and porters), and 41 foreign trekkers. It was sad to see, but there was one house that survived because it was under a cliff. It’s a heartbreaking reminder of the power of nature and the importance of staying safe in the mountains.

As we got closer to Langtang Village, we played a game to guess our hotel. Lisa guessed right, so she won a treat. We checked in to Village View Hotel in Langtang Village. We changed and cleaned up before having mashed potatoes with cheese for winning the game. Then we had dinner at 7 pm and talked with other travelers before going to bed.

Day 4: April 6, 2024 – Hike from Langtang Valley to Kyanjin Gompa

Last night was quite cold, but the hotel gave us warm blankets. I woke up at 5 am and did my usual yoga and meditation inside because it was too windy and cold outside. After finishing, I had coffee and waited for Daniel and Lisa.

We were supposed to have breakfast at 7:30, but it wasn’t rushed. Today’s hike to Kyanjin Gompa was only 8 km and 300 meters uphill, so not too tough. Lisa and Daniel slept well, especially since it was their first time at high altitude (3500 m).

After breakfast and putting on warm clothes, we started hiking at 8:30 am. We passed a long Buddhist Mane and always stayed to the left of it. We believe in keeping the Mane on our right side while walking. The weather was sunny and the trail wasn’t too steep.

After an hour of hiking from Langtang, we stopped at Sindum for a water break. We saw a sign for pure Yak milk and curd. We went into the Sindum Village homestay and had refreshing Yak milk. The people there were very friendly and welcoming. They even asked us to stay a night on our way back from the trek. We promised to try to stay there for a night when we return and then continued our hike.

From Sindum, we continued our hike towards Kyanjin Gompa. We passed more Manes, beautiful villages, and saw the Langtang river flowing beside us, with stunning mountain views all around. Our hike got even better with these sights.

After a while, we came across a place called Hard Rock Café. It was behind a big rock, hence the name. It was a nice spot along the way.

An hour later, we reached Kyanjin Monastery. It was huge and beautiful, with a unique prayer wheel turned by water from the mountains. We took a break, visited the monastery, and then kept hiking.

After about 30 minutes from the monastery, we crossed a beautiful suspension bridge and finally arrived at Kyanjin Gompa. The owner of the tea house we booked, “Hotel Yala Peak,” came to welcome us and showed us to our accommodation.

We were really hungry when we arrived, so we headed straight to the dining area of the tea house. The owner had prepared a delicious dalbhat for us. Daniel and Lisa have been enjoying Nepali dalbhat throughout the trek. They say they love it because it’s so nutritious. Dalbhat provides all kinds of nutrients like protein from the lentils, carbs from the rice, fiber from the veggies, and some fat. That’s why we say, “Dal bhat power 24 hour.” Eating more dalbhat while trekking in the mountains gives you the energy you need. It’s always a good idea to fuel up with dalbhat during a trek.

After lunch, we stepped out into the large garden of the tea house. Kyanjin Gompa felt like a true paradise. You don’t have to wait until you die to see heaven – being there with Daniel and Lisa was heaven itself. The village is surrounded by mountains like Langtang Lirung, Yala Peak, Dorje Lakpa, Kyanjin Ri, and Tsherko Ri, giving it a 360-degree view of breathtaking beauty. It’s the last village settlement in Nepal, and from here, we can climb peaks like Kyanjin Ri, Tsherko Ri, and Yala Peak. Tomorrow, we plan to climb Kyanjin Ri at 4900 meters, followed by Tsherko Ri at 5000 meters the day after.

After getting lost in the beauty of Kyanjin Gompa for a while, I suggested to Daniel and Lisa that we visit the hidden lakes. These lakes are nestled below Kyanjin Gompa to the south, and not many people know about them and they weren’t part of our original plan. We set off and hiked for about 45 minutes until we reached the serene lake cradled by the mountains. We spent an hour admiring the beauty of the lake before returning to the tea house.

In the evening we gathered at the dining as there were no any other guest at the teahouse we were happy to see no people. The old lady started a fire in the heating system as it was getting colder. In teahouses of Langtang to keep the room warm they have a typical heating system in the centre of the dinning room which makes the room warm after firing the firewoods inside it. Daniel, Lisa and me talked long conversation about life, struggle, happiness and many more we laughed and cried together and became more close and intimate to each other as we shared many personal things. I came to know them very close and much bigger space start growing in my heart for them.

After long conversation we had dinner together with the old lady “Aaama”, she cooked really delicious also we got an opportunity to hear her story and ups and downs and struggles of her life.

Day 5: April 7, 2024 – Conquering Heights at Kyanjin Ri Peak

The morning air was crisp as I ventured into the kitchen, where the old lady was busy preparing a hearty mountain breakfast. She explained that she was cooking Bucket wheat bread and a savory spinach and potato curry, traditional fare of the mountain people. Excited to taste these mountain delicacies, we enjoyed our meal in the garden of Hotel Yala Peak, soaking in the breathtaking mountain views.

Lisa and Daniel declared it their best breakfast spot ever, their joy evident as they savored each bite against the backdrop of majestic peaks. Their happiness warmed my heart as we geared up for our hike towards Kyanjin Ri, starting at 8:30 am with water and snacks in tow.

The trail to Kyanjin Ri proved challenging, with steep, narrow, and slippery paths testing our resolve. Yet, with patience, teamwork, and frequent breaks, we ascended to Kyanjin Ri peak I. In the mountains, the adage “slow and steady wins the race” rings true. In high altitudes, it’s essential not to rush, prioritizing safety over speed.

Amidst breathtaking vistas of the Langtang mountains, glaciers, and glacial lakes, we pressed on towards peak II. Despite the steep and narrow terrain, our cautious progress paid off as we reached Kyanjin Ri peak II (4900 m) within an hour. Lisa and Daniel’s exhilaration at reaching this altitude for the first time was palpable as we celebrated with photos, videos, and moments of meditation.

Descending to Kyanjin Gompa for a well-deserved rest, we gathered in the evening to share tales of joy and sorrow over dinner, while also planning our hike to Tsherko Ri, our final destination for the next day. With hearts full of adventure and memories, we retired to bed, eagerly anticipating the challenges and triumphs that awaited us on the next leg of our journey..

Day 6: April 8, 2024 – Conquering Heights at Tsherko Ri Peak and hike down to Sindum Village

Anticipating a challenging ascent to Tsherko Ri Peak, we rose early for breakfast at 7 am, knowing it would be a four-hour hike with reports of heavy snowfall halfway up the trail. Setting out from Kyanjin Gompa at 7:30 am, we treaded a flat path for 45 minutes before embarking on the steep ascent.

With excitement propelling us forward, we navigated the narrow and steep trails of Tsherko Ri, pausing frequently for water breaks. Along the way, we encountered fellow trekkers from around the world, all making their cautious ascent to the peak.

As we approached a narrow trail atop a hill, with a sheer drop below, we faced another thrilling challenge. Safely crossing the precarious path, we continued our ascent, encountering thick snowfall as we neared the halfway mark. Lisa and Daniel donned their crampons, while I braved the slippery terrain without mine, relying on careful footing and maneuvering around the rocks to mitigate the snow.

Battling against the biting wind and slippery conditions, we persevered until we reached the summit of Tsherko Ri at 5000 m after five hours hike from Kyanjin Gompa. Lisa and Daniel’s jubilation at reaching this milestone was contagious, as we reveled in the breathtaking panoramic views and captured memories with photos and videos

After a brief celebration at the peak, we commenced our descent, navigating the treacherous trail carefully due to the lingering snow. Slowly and steadily, we made our way back to Kyanjin Gompa, grateful for the successful summit and the unforgettable experiences shared along the way.

As we descended back to Kyanjin Gompa, we indulged in a satisfying lunch before bidding farewell to Aama, the gracious hostess who had showered us with warmth, hospitality, and mouthwatering meals. Promising to return one day and recommending her hotel to fellow trekkers, we expressed our gratitude for her exceptional care.

Setting out for Sindum Village Homestay at Sindum, we embarked on a nostalgic journey, reminiscing about the Yak milk we had enjoyed on our way up to Kyanjin Gompa. Arriving at our destination around 5 PM, we were warmly welcomed by the owner, whose delight at our return was evident.

After a brief respite, we gathered in the kitchen, where we were treated to a delicious porridge infused with Yak meat, a true culinary delight. Engaging in conversations about their culture, lifestyle, and family, we were captivated by their stories and experiences.

As evening descended, we were treated to a sumptuous dinner prepared with love and care, a testament to the genuine hospitality of our hosts. Filled with gratitude and contentment, we retired to bed, cherishing the memories of our Langtang trek and the heartfelt connections forged along the way.

Day 7: April 9, 2024 – Sindum Village to Sherpa Gaun

Following a rejuvenating night’s rest and a hearty breakfast at Sindum Village, we bid farewell to our gracious hosts and embarked on our hike towards Sherpa Gaun at 8:30 am.

Passing through the charming villages of Langtang and Ghodatabela, we veered onto a narrow yet picturesque trail from Ghodatabela, adorned with blooming rhododendrons of various hues, sightings of wild horses, yaks, and a plethora of bird species, including the elusive woodpecker, making our journey truly unforgettable.

After five hours of trekking from Sindum, we reached Lama Hotel, where we paused for a traditional Nepali lunch of dal bhat before continuing our journey towards Sherpa Village. Just twenty minutes from Lama Hotel, we arrived at Rimiche, where our path diverged. Opting for the uphill trail leading to Sherpa Village rather than the downhill route to Syafrubesi, we embarked on a new and exhilarating leg of our journey.

The trail to Sherpa Village offered a refreshing change from our previous routes, characterized by fewer tourists and stunning vistas at every turn. After an hour and a half of trekking from Lama Hotel, we arrived at Sherpa Village. Mindful of our preference for quieter and more hospitable accommodations, we sought out a smaller teahouse away from the crowds.

At the far end of Sherpa Village, we were warmly welcomed by the ladies of Hello Trekkers Guest House, who informed us that it was their inaugural day of operation. With no other guests in sight, we knew we had found the perfect haven for the night, where we could savor the warmth of genuine hospitality and relish the tranquility of our surroundings.

We were pleasantly surprised by the warm welcome we received at Hello Trekkers Guest House upon our return from our room. The aroma of freshly baked Khapse, a special Tibetan bread, along with steaming milk tea and a selection of fruits greeted us. The Khapse, with its delightful sweetness, was a treat for our taste buds, introducing us to yet another culinary delight of the mountain people.

The teahouse was managed by a young lady and her father/mother in law, as her husband was currently away guiding trekkers. Despite their absence, their hospitality shone through in every gesture. The young lady’s small daughter, chubby and adorable, added to the charm of the place, providing us with joyful company.

Her stepfather, an industrious elderly gentleman, tended to a variety of livestock and cultivated fresh vegetables on his farm, ensuring that we enjoyed organic and locally sourced produce during our stay. His dedication to his work was evident, and we appreciated the opportunity to experience the fruits of his labor firsthand.

The young lady, currently pursuing a Bachelor’s degree in hospitality and tourism, exhibited remarkable hospitality and a helpful nature, going above and beyond to ensure our comfort. Her passion for her field was evident in her attentive care and genuine concern for our well-being. We felt truly grateful to have crossed paths with such kind-hearted individuals during our trekking adventure in the Langtang region.

After a refreshing rest, we reconvened in the dining area for dinner. To our delight, the old man treated us to the mesmerizing melodies of the Tunguna, a traditional mountain instrument akin to a guitar. The soulful sounds of the Tunguna transported us to a state of deep relaxation, leaving us feeling truly blessed to have experienced such a special musical performance. Daniel, being a professional musician, couldn’t resist trying his hand at playing the Tunguna, further adding to the joyous atmosphere.

After some lighthearted fun, we were served dal bhat for dinner. Each bite of the dal bhat and curry carried a distinct and delicious flavor, reminiscent of home-cooked meals made with organic ingredients and served with love. Expressing our gratitude for the scrumptious dinner, we retired to bed, feeling content and grateful for the memorable experiences of the day.

Day 8: April 10, 2024 – Sherpa Gaun to Bridim Village

As the morning sun gently illuminated the landscape, the old man extended a warm invitation for us to visit his cow farm. Eager to learn about mountain life, we accompanied him as he demonstrated the age-old practice of milking cows by hand. Witnessing the calf nursing from its mother before the milking process commenced was a fascinating glimpse into the daily routines of mountain farming.

Exploring the old man’s farm, horse stable, and fields provided invaluable insights into the traditional lifestyle and agricultural practices of the mountain people. Lisa and Daniel soaked up every moment, immersing themselves in the rich tapestry of rural life.

After our farm visit, we were treated to a delightful breakfast in the old man’s garden, a serene spot that exuded tranquility and charm. With satisfied appetites, we set our sights on the day’s adventure: a hike to Bridim Village, a quaint settlement just four hours away from Sherpa Gaun.

At 9:30 am, accompanied by the old man who was journeying to Khanjim, we embarked on our trek. Graciously, the old man offered to have his horse carry our backpacks until Khanjim, lightening our load for the journey ahead.

Bidding a heartfelt farewell to our hosts at Hello Trekkers Guest House, we were touched by their gesture of farewell, receiving Khada, a special Nepali shawl symbolizing respect and goodwill. With the old man and his trusty horse leading the way, we set off towards Khanjim, a picturesque village where farmers toiled in the fields, cultivating potatoes with ox-drawn plows.

After two hours of scenic hiking from Sherpa Gaun, we reached Khanjim, where we bid farewell to the old man as his journey with us concluded. With gratitude for his guidance and hospitality, we continued on our path towards Bridim Village, eager to explore more of the captivating landscapes and cultural treasures of the Langtang region.

Following a two-hour hike from Khanjim Village, we arrived at Bridim Village, nestled near the Tibet (China) border, offering panoramic views of the rolling hills across the border. Perched atop a hill with abundant water sources and expansive farmlands, Bridim Village exuded a serene charm accentuated by a magnificent monastery adorning its summit.

Eager to immerse ourselves in the tranquility of the village, we set out in search of a secluded teahouse. After a brief exploration, we stumbled upon a quaint establishment tucked away in a corner of the village, offering the perfect retreat from the crowds.

After a period of rest, we embarked on a leisurely stroll through Bridim Village, following the ring road trail that wound its way through the charming streets. Our journey led us to the grand monastery, a testament to the rich cultural heritage of the region, before we returned to the teahouse to recharge.

Gathering once more in the cozy dining area, we were welcomed by the cheerful presence of the teahouse owner, his wife, daughter, and son, embodying the warmth of a close-knit family.

For dinner, we savored Egg Thenduk, a hearty Tibetan soup brimming with vegetables and prepared with flour, adding another delightful culinary experience to our journey.

As we relished our meal, I proposed a spontaneous adventure to Rasuwagadi and Rasuwagadi Fort, located near the China border. Though our original plan was to descend to Syafrubesi, the opportunity to witness the borderlands sparked excitement in Lisa and Daniel. With anticipation bubbling within us, we retired for the night, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us on the morrow.

Day 9: April 11, 2024 – Bridim Village – Rasuwagadhi, China border – Syafrubesi

With anticipation coursing through our veins, we convened in the garden for breakfast, ready to embark on our adventure to the China border. After bidding farewell to the hospitable teahouse family, we commenced our descent towards the highway at 7:30 am, where we aimed to catch a vehicle to Rasuwagadhi.

As we made our way down, a friendly German Shepherd joined our ranks, transforming our trio into a quartet of intrepid trekkers. Three hours later, we reached the highway, where I successfully flagged down a truck bound for China, unwittingly fulfilling Lisa’s dream of riding in such a vehicle. The exhilarating truck ride filled with laughter and camaraderie brought smiles to our faces and left us with cherished memories.

Upon reaching Timure, we bid farewell to the truck driver, expressing our gratitude with a chocolate energy bar, before continuing our journey towards Rasuwagadhi, the China-Nepal border. Despite the border being closed until noon, we gazed across the Bhotekosi River, bidding farewell to China with hopes of returning one day.

Our exploration continued as we visited Rasuwagadhi Fort, steeped in history and tales of Gurkha bravery. Afterward, we indulged in a refreshing Chinese beer and stocked up on chocolates and biscuits as mementos of our borderland escapade.

Realizing we had missed our bus to Syafrubesi, we embraced the unexpected turn of events and embarked on a 15-kilometer hike with laughter and camaraderie as our companions. Despite the fatigue of 10 days of continuous walking, Daniel and Lisa’s boundless energy and infectious smiles propelled us forward.

Arriving in Syafrubesi, we checked into our hotel, relishing the warmth of a shower before gathering once more to celebrate the success of our trek. With a couple of bottles of beer, we toasted to our journey and the memories made along the way, before drifting off to sleep, content and fulfilled.

Day 10: April 12, 2024 – Syafrubesi to Kathmandu drive

Today is the last day of our journey and returning back to Kathmandu by bus after long days amazing trek. After having breakfast at 7 am we catch a bus leaving at 7:30 am. The journey started and inside the bus was local Nepali music playing which we all enjoyed.

After 10 hours of long journey from Syafrubesi we reached Kathmandu. Few days earlier I offered  Lisa and Daniel to go to my  house today, meet my family, have dinner together and make a family relation among us. As soon as we dropped off to Machapokhari, Balaju we walked towards my home just 5 minutes from the bus station

My family members including my mom, wife, daughter and grandma were very happy to get introduced with Lisa and Daniel and thanked for coming our home on our invitation for dinner. We talked and have fun few hours and after dinner I dropped off Lisa and Daniel to Pulchowk the place they were staying and told good bye to each other promising to meet soon before they go back to the Netherlands.

In the morning of April 14 our mutual friend Suman Gurung a senior rafting guide and owner of Escapade Nepal invited us to Mugling for rafting, Kayaking, Camping and canyoning activity. With much excitement I called Lisa and Daniel they were much excited for the adventure and they also invited my wife and daughter to join. I left home at 10:30 am in my car with my wife and daughter and went to pickup Lisa and Daniel from Kalanki. Beating the heat and following the dusty road as my car ac gas was finished we struggled to reach Mugling in 5 hours sweating all the journey.

We went to Motel Du Mugling, my friends Suman and Suraj welcomed us we had a bottle of chilled beer together and headed down to Marsyangdi river carrying kayak for Kayaking. After Kayaking, swimming, riding ATV Quadrabike in the beach we had much fun. In the evening we did camping in the beach had a barbecue party till late night.

Next day after breakfast we went to Jalbire waterfall, a huge waterfall nearby Mugling for canyoning with Lisa and Daniel, Suman and his wife and daughter and my wife and daughter and Suraj. It was great canyoning adventure and we had much fun and returned to our resort at 3 pm where we had lunch and headed back to Kathmandu in the evening.

Thank you so much Suman Granja and the whole family, Suraj Silwal and Escapade Nepal for organizing such a memorable two days adventure trip.